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Please note that we have recently  technically improved the RouterMaster considerably - please check the new pricing and additional equipment that is now available.

The Router Master

Much more then an attachment for your router.

If you use it for your hobby or if you need it professionally, the RouterMaster is built to last. 

If you need to share your hobby space with a car in the garage or if you have the space of a large factory you will be able to find the right way to set it up suit you requirement.

In your small confined space you can easily dismantle part of your RouterMaster in minutes and store it away. 

In your lager space factory you can set the RouterMaster up in a rigid workbench to suit exactly what you need to do. 

The RouterMaster is one step off having the CNC router you might dream of for a fraction of the price. But there is more……. a CNC router can’t double up as a radial-arm or rip saw or set the router in angles as you can set your router with your RouterMaster, and much more that a hobbyist likes to do……

Naturally, the same applies for the professional workshop and every piece of equipment has its place to perform a specific task.

 Have you tried to buy a radial saw with a 2.5m stroke as it is used by customers to trim doors as an example? Or turn the router on the column of the RouterMaster to make wagon wheels or arc windows.

 Well we are always astonished in what our customers actually do with the RouterMaster. 

If you do something special we like to hear from you. Please drop us a line and maybe send us a photo. If you give us permission we can also put it on the webpage to inspire other woodworking enthusiasts.  

Click Here to see what other people have been doing with the routermaster

Description of some features of the RouterMaster

The router attachment with standard steel safety guard.

-         The router bracket comes set up to suit Japanese ½ “ collet plunge routers – most heavy duty routers. 

-         European or other routers may have different sized and spaced mounting pins. 

-         Modified Router brackets are supplied free of charge on request  with the RouterMaster supplied configured to suit the particular router in question (supply only free with the RouterMaster – otherwise we supply normal price plus shipping). 

-         The router is fitted to the bracket by first taking the base plate of the router off, - usually by undoing a nut and separating the motor from the router base.

-         The router is then fitted in the mounting pins and locked using the plunge lock lever of the router. 

-         Small ¼ “ collet routers (light duty router) can be fitted as well, model numbers need to be supplied just in case you picked an odd one that is different.

-         However we recommend ½ “ collet routers (heavy duty) if possible as more power is available for heavier work like  mouldings and heavier cuts that is often desired. You will get more joy out off a router that is more powerful – the price difference is not great but the value of having a good working tool is. 

 The plunger mechanisms - setting up the depth of cut using the plunge lever which is locked by turning the handle to the right and vice versa for unlocking.

 -         The cutting depth can be set with the depth rod via a knob.

-         This allows the plunge lever (router, saw, drill) to be raised and lowered to a preset depth virtually instantly.

-         A dust extraction guard can be fitted and a extractor house attached (please read the section on dust extractors). 

-         This guard will help to take pretty well all the fine dust away and most of the coarse chips as well. The dust extraction efficiency depends on the particular set-up and speed and size of cutter.

-         This setup is very effective and allows the use of the smallest cutters and you can still see your work through it if you have sufficient suction.

-         The extractor guard is made of unbreakable polycarbonate plastic. 

Basic Method utilising a template with the RouterMaster (have a look at the pictures). 

 -         The ¼ “ cutter is set directly above a ¼” removable pin which is set in the table

-         The board that holds the timber being cut out is grooved around 10 mm depth ¼” wide in the exact shape of the desired finished article
(i.e. one to one size ) No tricky offsetting to suit follower bearings is necessary.

-         The template can be made pretty easily starting with a cut-out shape of the finished article or MDF template. 

The Basic Method Is:

1. Master template i.e. Original shape or cut out.
2. Find suitable board, to use good quality MDF say 16 mm deep is a good idea.
3. Nail the master template to the board
4. Set up the R/Master so the cutter is directly above the table pin.
5. Put board and master template on table, template facing down.
6. Push template up against pin.
7. Lower cutter, using the plunge lever so the cutter cuts into the board slightly
8. Push the board around the shape; this will cut an outline of the desired item
9. Next lower the cutter into the board around 10 mm.
10. Very carefully follows around the shape and ensure the master template is kept against the pin at all times.
11. This will give an accurate groove exactly the same shape as the original.
12. Turn everything up the other way. (Leave the R/Master legs down) so the master template is on top.
13. Remove the master and keep to make future new patterns.
14. Put the pattern back on the table with the pin in the just created groove, lower the cutter and make an outline.
15. This outline shows you where to mount the work to be cut out.
16. You then nail, screw, glue or clamp your work to the template.
17. Set the depth of cut to the desired depth.
18. Engage the cutter into the work and proceed to cut out the job
19. You may have to take multiple passes with the cutter depending on the thickness of the job.

 Bare attachment (picture of saw attachment) showing hold down clips and smallest opening.

You can set up without saw for crosscutting or for ripping.

-         Saw can be adjusted for depth of cut.

-         To set distance between blade and fence the saw attachment is pulled out and locked at required position.

To set the saw for crosscutting the saw can be adjusted up and down using plunge lever but can also be adjusted via the handle on the rear column and the saw frame itself.

The saw can be set to perform angle cuts.

Saw can also be pivoted to perform a compound cut and compound mitre cuts.

The saw attachment is easy to set up, will take just about any power saw up to 9 ¼ “ blade right down to a small diamond saw.

It can be used for crosscutting, ripping, compound angle sawing, plunge sawing. It can be taken out of the bracket easily, used somewhere else and reset. It is indexed at 90 degrees and inclines with the fence. The mounting is one socket head cap screw and two locating pins.

Non plunge routers and jigsaws will also fit in this bracket. A sacrificial table should be attached to the existing table (when using for this - due to the plunging action of the lever). 

A 600 arm RouterMaster will allow a 600 full travel cut with this saw attachment.

The plunge mechanisms of the RouterMaster is a precise rack and gear lever design. 

This is a very precise mechanism that locks easily by twisting the handle to the right and unlocking by twisting to the left.

This one handed adjustment is very important as it allows the other hand to be able to stabilize the work. This feature is especially important when pattern cutting is done as the router is constantly plunged up and down into the work.

The slide is designed to compensate to adjustable for play and wear.

All made out of steel minimum thickness of 10 mm making it very sturdy.

It is really the heart of the machine and allows functions to be easily accomplished which would be difficult any other way.

The drill attachment allows any drill, die grinder or small router with a 43 mm collar to be mounted and used with the RouterMaster.

This is a very easy attachment to use.

The RouterMaster gives much more travel than normal radial arm drills.

The RouterMaster becomes a radial drill with a capacity from 600 mm to 1300 mm across depending on the model.

We can make longer arms on request at extra cost (2.5m is used by door installers to trim doors).

The arm can be taken off within a short time (5 min).

A lot of customers purchase a 600mm arm RouterMaster and then changing the arm if the longer arm is required.

It is best to purchase the longer arm with your RouterMaster because of transport cost of having an arm sent separately.